L'Univers FOODHUB · Recette · Wagyu
“No Sushi”: Laurent Lemal's Hay-Aged Wagyu
Wagyu fat is never thrown away: rendered, it puffs the rice. The shape says sushi, the content says Catalonia.
Laurent Lemal named his dish “No Sushi”. Wagyu salted then aged in hay, a creamy rice, and a puffed rice made with Wagyu fat. The shape says sushi, the content says Catalonia: it's a statement, from a chef who takes a Japanese product and refuses to imitate it.
The original dish, by Laurent Lemal, La Coopérative.
The key idea
Wagyu fat is never thrown away. Rendered, it's used for frying, for puffing rice, for enriching a broth. It's the most fragrant fat you'll ever have in your kitchen.
Hay, and how to do without it
Aging in hay perfumes the beef with a note of milk and dried grass. At home, without food-grade hay, you get a similar effect by sealing the cut in the refrigerator for twenty-four hours with a cold infusion of chamomile and green tea in the same airtight container, without direct contact.
The FOODHUB version, serves 4
- The salting. Twenty minutes in coarse salt, rinse, dry.
- The creamy rice. Short-grain rice cooked like a risotto, finished off the heat with a little stock and butter. It should stay loose.
- The puffed rice. Collect the fatty trimmings, render them gently, strain. Puff cooked, dried rice in this very hot fat: it pops in a matter of seconds.
- Assembly. A base of creamy rice, a slice of Wagyu on top, and the puffed rice over it for crunch.
Mistakes to avoid
- Fat that isn't hot enough. The rice doesn't puff; it soaks up the fat and turns greasy.
- Overcooked rice. It should stay creamy, not mushy.
- Trying to make real sushi. That's not the point: no sweetened rice vinegar here.
The cuts that work
Further reading
- Wagyu through the eyes of twenty French Michelin-starred chefs
- Seared A5 Wagyu nigiri
- A5 Wagyu onigiri
Original dish and photography: Laurent Lemal, La Coopérative, for the J-LEC “Japanese Wagyu” menu booklet. Home adaptation written by FOODHUB.
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