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The Tour d'Argent Wagyu Rib, at Home
Two hours at 150 °C, covered, and a light broth rather than a sauce: the Tour d'Argent chef's idea, adapted to your kitchen.
At La Tour d'Argent, Philippe Labbé cooked a Wagyu rib for two hours at 150 °C, covered. He served it with Aomori black garlic, a burrata skin and sautéed black truffle loosened with shabu-shabu broth. Here is how to bring this idea home, without a kitchen brigade or palace equipment.
The original dish, by Philippe Labbé, La Tour d'Argent.
The key idea
Long cooking, but very gentle and covered, then a light broth on the side rather than a butter-mounted sauce. Wagyu fat already provides all the richness you need.
Why covered, and at 150 °C
On a thick cut, dry heat dries out the surface long before the center moves. The lid keeps moisture around the meat, and 150 °C is enough to slowly melt the collagen without draining the marbling. It is the exact opposite of a sear: here, the browning comes at the end, or not at all.
The FOODHUB version, serves 4
- Temper an A5 Wagyu ribeye of about 500 g for one hour, pat it dry, salt it.
- Cook covered in a Dutch oven in the oven, 1 h 30 min at 150 °C for this size, to 55 °C at the core. A thermometer is essential.
- The broth. Soak 10 g of kombu for 30 minutes in 1 liter of cold water, heat without boiling, and remove the seaweed at the first simmer. Add one tablespoon of mirin.
- The garnish. Sweat sliced mushrooms in a little Wagyu fat, then add a ladle of broth.
- Plate. Slice the meat 1 cm thick, set the mushrooms alongside, and pour the piping-hot broth at the table. A touch of sesame ponzu replaces the tangy note of the black garlic.
What the chef says
Asked about this dish, Philippe Labbé explains that he was looking for balance: truffle to stand up to the meat, the sweetness of Italian burrata to round it out, and Japanese wasabi to wake everything up. The principle works with whatever you have on hand: one thing that stands up, one that rounds out, one that wakes up.
Mistakes to avoid
- Mounting a butter sauce. It adds to the fat instead of balancing it.
- Turning up the oven. Above 160 °C, the marbling ends up in the pot.
- Boiling the kombu. The broth turns bitter.
- Serving too hot. Let it rest ten minutes: the slice holds together better and the juices stay inside.
All the ingredients, in one click
The meat, the seaweed for the broth, the mirin and the ponzu. The rest, mushrooms and herbs, you'll find at your greengrocer.
Add all 4 ingredients to cart →
Frequently asked questions
What core temperature should you aim for?
55 °C for a pink result on a thick cut cooked covered. Expect three more degrees during resting.
Can you replace the kombu?
With a very light chicken broth, but the whole point is the neutrality of kombu, which brings umami without imposing its own flavor.
Do you need truffle?
No. Well-roasted seasonal mushrooms play the same role: a woodsy flavor that stands up to the fat.
Further reading
- Wagyu Through the Eyes of Twenty French Michelin-Starred Chefs
- A5 Wagyu shabu-shabu
- Which cut for which cooking method?
Original dish and photograph: Philippe Labbé, La Tour d'Argent, for J-LEC's “Japanese Wagyu” menu booklet. The version above is a home adaptation written by FOODHUB; the chef's recipe belongs to him.
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