Yamakawa, mountain cuisine
In the mountains of Yamanashi, one family has been perpetuating the recipes of Minobu — sauces, condiments, marinades — since 1924.
Minobu cuisine is the food of the Buddhist monks of Mount Minobu. Aged ponzu sauce, yellow soy miso, yuzu and togarashi chili condiment. Yamakawa is one of only three active establishments that produce these sauces while respecting monastic traditions. Artisanal production, wooden barrels, no additives.
Mount Minobu, a sanctuary of the Nichiren school since the 13th century, welcomes hundreds of monks in retreat. Their cuisine — strictly vegetarian, without garlic or onion — relies on sauces to provide depth. Yamakawa has been supplying these monks since 1924.
The story
The flagship sauce, 'minobi-ponzu,' is a blend of soy sauce, mirin, rice vinegar, and yuzu zest. It's aged for three months in cedar barrels, allowing the yuzu to slowly oxidize and release its noble bitterness. Over cold tofu, it's a revelation.
« Our cuisine isn't about poverty. It's about purity. »
The terroir
Yamanashi is known for its fruits — peaches, Koshu grapes, mountain yuzu. Yamakawa works with four yuzu orchards located above 800m altitude. At this height, the zests are more fragrant, less bitter, and oilier.
The Yamakawa workshop is in the village of Minobu, 5 km from the temple. The family has refused to move despite logistical difficulties: here, spring water flows down from the cedar and cypress forests. It is used to cook the soybeans, dilute the sauces, and clean the barrels.
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